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rcull · Diesel Engines

We are working with a Kubota D1105-T-E2B 3 cylinder Diesel engine. The specification for the bore size of the oversize piston we are fitting is 3.09055" to 3.09129". We finished the bore at about 3.0915" (Service limit is 3.09720"). We figured we had a piston clearance between .0035"-.0004"

The motor ran until it began to work. Temp climbed and it was shut down and disassembled. We found the center piston had picked up. The pistons were sourced from Kumar Bros.. The only info we had to work with was bore size, no piston clearances. I was concerned when the rings needed to be filed about .006" to get specified clearance.

The two end pistons still look good. The owner wants to buy one OE Kubota piston and ring assembly for the center and retry thinking because we are working to Kubota specs it should work fine. I feel we should at least open up the center bore .0005" regardless of what piston we put in. I would not even complain about opening the end cylinders .0005" and the center cylinder .001".

What we did not know when we started this is most of these engines have steam holes. This one is an early one and does not! There do not seem to be any specification differences for with or without steam holes.

Any comments?
Thanks

rcull · General Discussion

When I want the housing bore size for a connecting rod, I go to the AERA Connecting Rod manual. Where do I go when I want a housing bore size for the main bearings in a block (ie: I want to line hone a block)? They are not in the Head & Block Manual.

Thanks

rcull · Gas Engines

I had a screw up with a Chev 454
I bored the first hole to about .0015" of finish, bore is +.060". I used a freshly sharpened bit. It will be using Wiseco forged pistons and a set of Hastings Moly rings. I have a honing plate and use vitrified stones, 220 to less than .0005" of finish, 280 to finish, touch with 400 and a couple of reverse strokes with a honing brush.

I really wanted to d a good job, to fix it, should I sleeve it, I am concerned about having enough depth to properly oil the rings in the .0015"?

What would you do?

I've been loosing sleep...
Thanks

rcull · Performance Engines

Bill,
Do you know what kind of interference he uses for any particular common size?

Thanks,

rcull · Performance Engines

I believe staking was described in one set of instructions I read, but they were supposed to have an interference fit. I don't remember how much. I have purchased a reamer that should give me a good fit on the .438 tungsten, but I haven't had the opportunity to try it yet.

Thanks for the input

rcull · Performance Engines

I have been playing with balancing for a while now and thought I would put out a few thoughts for comments. The comments may give me confidence in my ways, or change them . I am working with an older Hines HC500

A couple of times now when I have had a crank that needs a small amount of weight added, I have looked at the opposite side removed weight to throw the correction point onto the edge of the counterweight, then made the required correction. I realize there can be issues with stress relieving the surface tensions which could cause some warping of the crank. I possibly may have run into this on one crank where I significantly removed the casting lines. There may have been a .0005" misalignment as a result. As an afterthought, the removal of the casting line did not contribute significantly to moving the correction angle anyway.

When adding tungsten, I find it can be challenging to stake the crank especially if you drill the hole through. I have tried keeping the hole blind so that only the more accessible side needs staking. This does mean that you cannot ream for a good fit. I find in most cases the 1/2" tungsten taps in nicely, the .438 is more of a challenge to get tight. I have used red locktite to ensure the weights stay secure.

If you are one who firmly believes in a through hole so that it can be reamed, do you have any suggestions for staking the hard to access side?
Thanks for your thoughts

rcull · Equipment Wanted

Thank you for the suggestion, I have emailed them.
I have found what I believe to be a Buick Stage II torque plate. It has a 14 bolt pattern. I suspect that it should fit the 3.8 using the 8 bolts. Can someone confirm this?

rcull · Equipment Wanted

I want a honing plate for a 1985-87 Buick 3.8, approximate dimensions are:
Bore would be 3.8"+, with a bore spacing of about 4.250. Bolts would be about 4.250 x 3.100. Dimensions measured with my caliper.

rcull · General Discussion

I know it won't fit anyone got one for a 3.8 they will part with?

rcull · General Discussion

I want a honing plate for a 1985-87 Buick 3.8, approximate dimensions are:
Bore would be 3.8"+, with a bore spacing of about 4.250. Bolts would be about 4.250 x 3.100. Dimensions measured with my caliper.

I am looking at a plate for a 2.8/3.1 C
heverolet. Other than boring it out a bit, would it fit?

Thanks

Diesel Engines » Kubota D1105-T-E2B » 12/18/2017 5:13 pm

General Discussion » Block Bearing Housing Sizes? » 1/17/2017 11:59 am

Gas Engines » Salvaging a Screwed up Bore:( » 7/15/2016 2:26 am

Performance Engines » Crankshaft Balancing » 1/30/2016 9:54 pm

Performance Engines » Crankshaft Balancing » 1/20/2016 6:03 pm

Performance Engines » Crankshaft Balancing » 1/07/2016 5:08 pm

Equipment Wanted » Buick 3.8 Torque/Honing Plate » 12/19/2015 10:15 pm

Equipment Wanted » Buick 3.8 Torque/Honing Plate » 12/18/2015 10:28 am

General Discussion » 2.8/3.1 and Buick 3.8 » 12/15/2015 2:09 pm

General Discussion » 2.8/3.1 and Buick 3.8 » 12/14/2015 4:27 pm

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