Hi Bill
I stopped using the replacement guides in alloy heads years ago in favor of the K-Line liner system
I use the air clamp fixture with stand built in.
I find the system while it uses alignment bushings for the seat and the boring tool/tools it keeps the guide center vary concentric to the original valve seat making the need to sink the valves alot un-nessary any longer.
There is a disassembly bench I use in conjunction with the liner system to put the small spring/keeper combo's back in place.

Basicly the system consists of an adjustable pair of V head stande and can be raised or lowered as needed and spread to 48" wide to mak3e doing gu8ides in any head a breeze.

The liners can be had in a variety of minimum finished sizes and the broach drivers can be had in an infinant number of sizes.
Carbide sizing balls from k-lINE CAN BE COSTLY BUT THERE ARE MANY BEARING MANUFACTURES THAT CAN SUPPLY hss BALL BEARINGS IN ANY SIZE YOU WANT.....

I found this many years ago that if you have a stem and guide combo that works you can taylor the job with the optional ball sizes to get the finished ID you really want with out having to settle for a bit larger ID.

If you hone guides like I do most HP heads get the guides honed but my point is to save honing time the liner n3eds to be broached as close to the finished size to start with to minimize honinh time.

The K-Line ebay store is a wealth of products heavily discounted but thats what I do in the short form


its your turn to call me and I will give you the run down but a common Honda 16V heads takes me about 20-- 30 minutes to bore clean and install and then size all the guiides.

 Giove me a call at the shop in the am MY time I open at pam PSTime


Dave Conway
ProPower Engine and Machine
250 652 6985 IN Canada Hey!!!

Last edited by Dave Conway (3/28/2015 1:34 am)

When that happens I push a new guide in and re-align then with the liner system to the factory seats.
the replacement guides seem to never be concentric from the ID to the OD and thats very  frustrating on non-adjustable stuff. There is a very fine line between being off a little and off alot but the pilot of the K-Line boring tool being smaller allows the re-alignment to the seat center.

enginemac1 wrote:

I have noticed that some guides that taper on ends to very thin wall thickness have a tendency to crack when using Kline ball broaches.   Never a perfect world in the engine business.

Randy

Yes while these are a PITA I start at the thinner end to avoid all the material moving towards the thined guide end..
You must trim the top instead of the bowl side of the excess liner material but 99% of the time it keep the guides from cracking.

Do you  freeze the guide and heat head?  if so, what temp?   My guy like to heat the head to about 150-180 f degrees  to install guides. ( not liners)

 

I have seen lately that it also depends on the brand. I had some SBI guides that came out of the box with the hole .015-.020 off center and some PEP guides that were about .002 off center on a 5/8" od guide I use to repair leaky BBC exhaust guides.

I have seen similar issues with import guides as well but not the same degree as I just got fro SBI bit they have been off center .003"-.005" which as we all have seen on a small seat can be the difference between replacing the seat or having a slightly thinner seat width on one side of the valve face.

I believe it is very important that we all remember that parts are still machine made and that calibrations may not happen fast enough and what tolerance level that particular manufacture is willing to work to.

I bet if an issue is not caught till close to the end of a run they will discount the pieces and they still end up in the parts world some where cause that crap always seems to end up in my suppliers inventory. cause of the bean counters.