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I have been playing with balancing for a while now and thought I would put out a few thoughts for comments. The comments may give me confidence in my ways, or change them . I am working with an older Hines HC500
A couple of times now when I have had a crank that needs a small amount of weight added, I have looked at the opposite side removed weight to throw the correction point onto the edge of the counterweight, then made the required correction. I realize there can be issues with stress relieving the surface tensions which could cause some warping of the crank. I possibly may have run into this on one crank where I significantly removed the casting lines. There may have been a .0005" misalignment as a result. As an afterthought, the removal of the casting line did not contribute significantly to moving the correction angle anyway.
When adding tungsten, I find it can be challenging to stake the crank especially if you drill the hole through. I have tried keeping the hole blind so that only the more accessible side needs staking. This does mean that you cannot ream for a good fit. I find in most cases the 1/2" tungsten taps in nicely, the .438 is more of a challenge to get tight. I have used red locktite to ensure the weights stay secure.
If you are one who firmly believes in a through hole so that it can be reamed, do you have any suggestions for staking the hard to access side?
Thanks for your thoughts
Last edited by rcull (1/20/2016 6:05 pm)
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Bob,
I dont do enough Heavy Metal to justify the tooling right now. I have a friend at another shop install the metal for me and then I finish the balancing. I have been there when he does it and he always drills all the way through and I have never seen him stake the holes afterwards. As hard as it is to press the metal in, I cant imagine it ever coming out.
I wonder if your tooling is worn and not finishing the holes to the correct size ? Have you tried drilling and reaming a hole and actually measuring it to see how much press fit there is ?
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I believe staking was described in one set of instructions I read, but they were supposed to have an interference fit. I don't remember how much. I have purchased a reamer that should give me a good fit on the .438 tungsten, but I haven't had the opportunity to try it yet.
Thanks for the input
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Bill,
Do you know what kind of interference he uses for any particular common size?
Thanks,
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Chamfer tungsten and roll metal around it. got to have right grinding wheel to do so.
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Ground heavy metal comes 2-3 thou. oversize, use standard drills/reamers.
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