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12/02/2017 4:32 pm  #1


1964 327 block with a crack in #1 cylinder

I am preparing to save a 1964 327 block 3782870 with correct date code for a 1964 Corvette.
I've look long and hard for a suitable block, so the suggestion of getting another one is off the table!
 
This engine will end up a 383 or 385 depending on where the bore clean-up.

The block has a crack in #1 hole from water that sat in the bore. 

The crack doesn't come up on the deck and doesn't go down into the main web area either. 

The bores are currently 4.000" but will probably need to go +.030 to clean up. This engine is getting a 3.750 stroke crank and 6.0" rods. 

I want to keep the bottom of the bore solid (without a step) because the pistons skirts might just get there. Trying to decide what type of sleeve to use and I'm looking for advice from guys with experience. 

Should I be looking for a sleeve with a top flange?  ........or install a straight sleeve with more press fit?
I like the idea of honing the hole to fit the sleeve. I can control the press fit better that way.

My other questions

Should I stop drill the crack? or leave it be?
What kind of sealer should I use?
Heat the block and chill the sleeve on install?

All advice appreciated

 

 

12/05/2017 6:32 pm  #2


Re: 1964 327 block with a crack in #1 cylinder

If you really want a block i have a 4 bolt mid sixties 327 block #'s are hard to read but i can send you a pic of it if you'd like, i believe it was a small journal it's been on the shelf for many years don't quite remember all the specs off hand

 

12/12/2017 8:47 pm  #3


Re: 1964 327 block with a crack in #1 cylinder

If I was doing it, would put a straight sleeve with a 1/8 lip at the bottom and press the sleeve  most of the way in and wipe lock tite around top and bottom, then finish installing. Once bored if your sleeve angle matches your cutter, you won't really see the sleeve.
Jeff. 

 

12/18/2017 12:50 pm  #4


Re: 1964 327 block with a crack in #1 cylinder

Use a 3/32 wall sleeve and as mentioned leave a .125 lip at the bottom of the bore for the sleeve to land on then trim the top and it will be as good as new.


Pro Power Engine & Machine
Victoria BC Canada
www.propowerengines.ca
 

12/27/2017 8:34 pm  #5


Re: 1964 327 block with a crack in #1 cylinder

Roalnd,
 I know this is a week or two old post but ....  I have been using more and more of the sleeves with a flange at the top.  I like the fact that you can bore all the way through and then hand finish the bottom to match the original form.  You don't have to use as much press fit as a straight sleeve with no step at the bottom.  It really is not that much more work if you have a modern boring machine.
 I also like to finish the bore to size with the hone to get the correct press fit.
 


Bill Koustenis
Advanced Automotive Machine
Waldorf Md
www.enginerepairshop.com
 

1/01/2018 11:14 pm  #6


Re: 1964 327 block with a crack in #1 cylinder

I prefer to use the flanged type sleeves as well but the older blocks have lost of meat in the ends of the bore and if the sleeve is installed before finishing the bores the extra press fit is no issue but if it is an in service type of repair then the flanged type is a must.
 I also see shops shy away from it because they do not have the "know how" to do the installation of that type of sleeve. Also the extra shop time cost that must be factored into a repair like that is considered unnecessary where in fact in most cases it is the better way to do it.

Older shops it seems are having a very hard time getting with the times and current products available to make better quality repairs when doing jobs such as this.
The other issue that comes up is sleeve type and material choice of the sleeve. LA Sleeve and Darton have many options for sleeves that are more appropiate for a repair in any high performance engine application.
Cost between the 2 companies can also be the major consideration as the typical $20 cast repair sleeve which is the go to choice for most shops there is a much stronger choice available from tyhose mentioned.

In this case I would go with a higher tensile strength sleeve/ material because of the natue of the build to avaid any issues down the road.
Call the guys at LA sleeve and see what they can do for you. Just as a note where I am there is very limited suppliers available of any really good performance sleeves and I have had to be able to obtain them directly cutting some 3rd parts cost from the equasion making it much more cost effective to get the best quality and lwer costs of direct buying power.
 

Last edited by Dave Conway (1/01/2018 11:21 pm)


Pro Power Engine & Machine
Victoria BC Canada
www.propowerengines.ca
 

1/02/2018 11:52 am  #7


Re: 1964 327 block with a crack in #1 cylinder

Dave Conway wrote:

Just as a note where I am there is very limited suppliers available of any really good performance sleeves and I have had to be able to obtain them directly cutting some 3rd parts cost from the equasion making it much more cost effective to get the best quality and lwer costs of direct buying power.
 

Dave,
  I have been using Powerbore sleeves lately. Very fast turnaround on custom stuff.  Very good quality as far as size goes too.
http://powerbore.com/
 


Bill Koustenis
Advanced Automotive Machine
Waldorf Md
www.enginerepairshop.com
 

2/25/2018 8:21 am  #8


Re: 1964 327 block with a crack in #1 cylinder

Would you be risking coolant weepage down to bottom of sleeve by using a flange type sleeve?  Pressure testing blocks that have sleeves installed with a lip at bottom has revealed some leakage when bored too deep for sleeve and some of the lip is gone.  Full lip at bottom  seems to prevent any coolant leaking into crankcase.

 

2/26/2018 9:20 pm  #9


Re: 1964 327 block with a crack in #1 cylinder

MrBill wrote:

Dave Conway wrote:

Just as a note where I am there is very limited suppliers available of any really good performance sleeves and I have had to be able to obtain them directly cutting some 3rd parts cost from the equasion making it much more cost effective to get the best quality and lwer costs of direct buying power.
 

Dave,
  I have been using Powerbore sleeves lately. Very fast turnaround on custom stuff.  Very good quality as far as size goes too.
http://powerbore.com/
 

Thanks for the link Bill.
I will put them on my call list for next week

Dave C


Pro Power Engine & Machine
Victoria BC Canada
www.propowerengines.ca
 

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