If you really want a block i have a 4 bolt mid sixties 327 block #'s are hard to read but i can send you a pic of it if you'd like, i believe it was a small journal it's been on the shelf for many years don't quite remember all the specs off hand

Use a 3/32 wall sleeve and as mentioned leave a .125 lip at the bottom of the bore for the sleeve to land on then trim the top and it will be as good as new.

I prefer to use the flanged type sleeves as well but the older blocks have lost of meat in the ends of the bore and if the sleeve is installed before finishing the bores the extra press fit is no issue but if it is an in service type of repair then the flanged type is a must.
 I also see shops shy away from it because they do not have the "know how" to do the installation of that type of sleeve. Also the extra shop time cost that must be factored into a repair like that is considered unnecessary where in fact in most cases it is the better way to do it.

Older shops it seems are having a very hard time getting with the times and current products available to make better quality repairs when doing jobs such as this.
The other issue that comes up is sleeve type and material choice of the sleeve. LA Sleeve and Darton have many options for sleeves that are more appropiate for a repair in any high performance engine application.
Cost between the 2 companies can also be the major consideration as the typical $20 cast repair sleeve which is the go to choice for most shops there is a much stronger choice available from tyhose mentioned.

In this case I would go with a higher tensile strength sleeve/ material because of the natue of the build to avaid any issues down the road.
Call the guys at LA sleeve and see what they can do for you. Just as a note where I am there is very limited suppliers available of any really good performance sleeves and I have had to be able to obtain them directly cutting some 3rd parts cost from the equasion making it much more cost effective to get the best quality and lwer costs of direct buying power.
 

Last edited by Dave Conway (1/01/2018 11:21 pm)

Would you be risking coolant weepage down to bottom of sleeve by using a flange type sleeve?  Pressure testing blocks that have sleeves installed with a lip at bottom has revealed some leakage when bored too deep for sleeve and some of the lip is gone.  Full lip at bottom  seems to prevent any coolant leaking into crankcase.